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Search for a book to add a reference. We take abuse seriously in our discussion boards. Only flag comments that clearly need our attention. Everything has a story. Everything is cooked on the hearth, which has a mammoth hood covered in copper. The fire is so big and so intense that these guys are sweating through their shirts in five minutes. There is something primal in the fire. The way people are drawn to it is insane. They just stare for hours. I kept hearing it: And it always means the same thing: A space for people to come together as a community, to mourn, to celebrate, to rebel.

The poor people eat there and the rich people eat there. A maydan brings everyone together over a common emotion. And that is powerful. It took a trip halfway around the world to design the live-fire hearth at the center of this Middle Eastern restaurant. But it takes only one meal—and a couple hours staring longingly at the huge hearth and all the charred meats and puffy bread coming off it—to realize why it was so worth it.

Owner Rose Previte tells the story of how it all got started. When all the flavors meld, the dried mint blooms and transforms this dish into an addictive slaw that pairs well with fatty cuts of meat. Cinnamon lends additional sweetness to this savory jam, making it an excellent match with heavily spiced lamb or pork.

A giant hearth with a copper hood sits at the center of Maydan, which is housed in a former train facility. The chefs at Maydan make this summer grain salad extra tart with lots of lemon juice. It can be served on its own or alongside creamy spreads or fatty pieces of meat. We want you to taste the food, to taste the vegetables just as they are. In Georgia I discovered this clay-pot oven, known as a tone, that made it all the way there from India. We make a flatbread using recipes from all the cultures put together. At Maydan the lamb shoulder is cooked sous vide until meltingly tender and then finished in the hearth until crisp and golden brown.

We adapted their recipe for the oven to similar effect. If you love hummus or baba ghanoush, this dairy-free dip will become a new favorite. Just make sure you have plenty of warm flatbread to scoop it all up. But the atmosphere is pure fun. My best memory of my dad cooking is him pounding curry paste because nobody else could make it the way he wanted. He pounded all day, for hours and hours.

Here at Ugly Baby, we make our curry paste the way my dad did: The hottest restaurant in New York? And the food he cooks is habit-forming: Warm water, beer, and milk help too. Later he helped lead the kitchen at the short-lived but critically acclaimed Kao Soy in Red Hook, then a pop-up down the street called Chiang Mai. When he finally succeeded, he named the place Ugly Baby after an old Thai superstition: Born and raised in Bangkok, Sreparplarn learned to cook from his parents.

His father would spend hours at home pounding curry paste, and his mother worked as a chef at a hotel. Am I in a comfort zone already? I have to dare to do more. Cool, crunchy herbs and veggies balance heat. It is the base of almost all my dishes. Thai cooking has adopted so many methods from so many different cuisines from China, from Myanmar, from Thai Muslims, today from Koreans, from the Japanese.

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But the key to Thai cuisine, if we strip all that off, is the paste. That is the real Thailand to me. We already know what is good. Fresh, ripe red Thai bird chiles release the best aroma and flavor. We also sometimes use the bigger cayenne chile pepper for texture and color but not really for flavor. Sirichai Sreparplarn back row center in orange hat with his staff, who coordinate their colorful costumes every Saturday this was Bowie night.

We had them custom made. Similar to Cheers, you can receive a call at the bar. I would love if one of the employees answered the phone and went into the dining room and called out to someone. The many browns, tans, and oranges play off the saddle-like cognac leather cushions.

Other modern delis have popped up, but a lot of them were just changing the deli aesthetic, going light and bright—minimalist design with subway tile. Where can we bring this idea of Jewish food to another level? I grew up going to delis with my grandfather in Toronto. Sour pickles are staples of Jewish cooking, but I find them boring.

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Thus, the half-sour salad was born. Our latkes are done in a waffle iron. Our brisket is served with bone marrow—which just pushes it in a more French direction. We have a lot of French customers, actually. It depicts perched birds with strawberries in their mouths. The color scheme seems kind of country club to me. What would that look like? I wanted to fill everything. Our bar is made from an old hearth we found.

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A local tattoo artist, Aron Dubois, did our logo. The bar area is filled with richer, darker tones: It feels a little more like a speakeasy: The wallpaper used along the bar to create that kind of Prohibition-esque atmosphere is a. As for the gold plumbing on the urinal, that was incredibly hard to get our hands on.

That was deep web. I think [former L. Times critic] Jonathan Gold called them quenelles. We serve them in Luminarc Amberline cookware we found in Koreatown. The outside gets crispy and renders the inside soft and mashed potato-y. You get rye bread, you get pickles, and the idea is that you create this massive sandwich out of everything.

This took double the time to install than all the newly manufactured wallpaper did.

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It was like trying to put up newspaper. It was thin and delicate and had to be done with a very gentle hand. The background is a kind of burgundy color, and the flowers are grayish-white, which play off the marble counter below. All the bagels are hand rolled and made in-house. We swap the traditional corned beef for our pastrami, which is brined and smoked in-house. Because your grandparents, as they go through time, they collect things. And all of these eras exist at once. Genius is when you take a timeless concept, turn it on its head, and redefine it.

They improved an already perfect thing. Here, Jonah breaks down every careful detail, from the latkes to the lavatory. Jonah Freedman tells us a few of them. At her deeply personal restaurant in the East Bay, Nite Yun reimagines the Cambodian food of her childhood, from soulful bowls of Cambodian noodle soup to flavorful marinated pork chops, all set to a psychedelic Khmer playlist.

Here are three dishes that transport Yun back in time. I was born in a refugee camp in Thailand after my parents fled the genocide in Cambodia in the s. I was two years old when I came to the States. But even though I had never been to Cambodia, I was still connected to the country because of the stories I heard growing up.

I was 23 or It was so trippy. Everywhere I went I was like, Wow, these are all the foods I grew up eating. This noodle soup dish, listed on the menu as kuy teav Phnom Penh, is what inspired me to start Nyum Bai. This simple marinated pork chop with rice, bai sach chrouk, reminds me of my childhood.

My mom would marinate the pork overnight in coconut milk, soy sauce, and garlic, and then my brothers and I would come home from school, pan-fry it ourselves, and eat it with rice. If we wanted, we could put an egg on top. As far as I can remember, back to five or six years old, I was always in the kitchen with my mom. Growing up, we were isolated from the community.

I think my parents were just shocked when they arrived in America. It was very difficult for them to assimilate. After the refugee camp in Thailand, we moved to Texas for a few. Nyum Bai started as a pop-up but opened a brick-and-mortar location in February I remember the smell of cutting lemongrass, mixing it in with the garlic and shallots and lime leaves.


There are three main parts: When I was in Phnom Penh, I started my mornings eating it at my favorite noodle stall. Halfway through eating the soup, I started thinking, Oh my gosh, this is so good, but no one in America knows about it. But in Phnom Penh life was just happening all around me. People had moved on from the war; they were living, celebrating, having a good time. Cambodia has such a rich and beautiful history. And I thought people needed to know more about Cambodian food because it is so damn good.

We lived in an apartment complex with a lot of other Cambodian families, but we kind of stayed to ourselves.

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All that was taken away from them by the regime. To make prahok ktiss, she would stir-fry the paste with pork belly and let it simmer so the fat would incorporate with all the other flavors and create this thick creamy dip for raw veggies. I was hesitant to put this on the menu at first because it was so different and weird, but all the customers who have tried it have come back just to order it.

It takes us about 45 minutes per day to make the omelets. We boil it, clean it, and shell it, then we take the crab innards, or the kani-miso, and toss that in with the crabmeat. We wrap all of that meat in nori and serve it. Hanging at the table before the sushi arrives at Nimblefish, a joint collaboration of chefs Cody Auger and Dwight Rosendahl and wine guru Kurt Heilemann. Like most sushi, the secret to uni lies in who your source is. I have a great source for this in Japan. We wrap it in nori and serve it.

The result is a briny piece of sushi that ends very sweet. Impeccably sourced fish, perfectly seasoned rice, and relentless attention to detail define every bite at this transcendent sushi bar. Chef Cody Auger takes us through a few pieces of his ethereal Edomae-style sushi. We cook the outside of the fish with hot water and marinate it in a soy-based marinade for 20 to 30 minutes.

The bar seats are the best in the house. Afterward, we drop the fish into an ice bath and the salt falls off. We do this to preserve a layer of fat between the skin and the flesh. That fat adds a major boost to the flavor. Chef Cody Auger preps short-grain Calrose rice for service in a hangiri, a rounded, flat-bottomed wooden tub used for rice-making. Because we want the sourcing to really shine, we keep the preparation minimal.

We lightly salt everything on the skin side and let it sweat a little bit. We source scallops from Hokkaido, Japan, through a relationship I built with a fish purveyor while working at previous restaurants. The shad is heavily salted for 30 minutes, then rinsed with vinegar, then rested in a vinegar marinade for another 30 minutes. Most restaurants source theirs from year-round aquaculture farms in Japan, but we prefer ours wild-caught and in-season. We wash it with salt and top it with grated ginger. I wanted to make ours really silky and smooth, so I use a little less egg and I add some very grassy olive oil for richness.

I like a savory touch in the sweet dishes, so I dust the candied walnuts with salt. The next day we sold 40 of them. We try to be really hands-off when rolling it to keep it extra flaky. The citrus version came out of desperation, to be honest. Pastry pro Angela Pinkerton in back gets in on the tasting with chef David Nayfeld in blue shirt.

Does America need another Italian restaurant? If that restaurant is Che Fico, the answer is a definitive yes. From practically the moment it opened, this place has been humming like a restaurant in its second decade. The secret to this umami-rich chilled broth? Two types of bonito flakes—katsuobushi skipjack and sababushi mackerel. Nishioka scatters crisp slivers of nori over the bowl; they cling to the noodles and balance out the soy-slicked meat.

Chef-owner Tsuyoshi Nishioka takes his niku udon seriously—but himself less so. Squeeze it over the beef, Nishioka instructs, to balance out the savoriness of the meat with some acidity. Lead cook Tomohiro Shinoda examines each strand carefully. He hopes to open his own noodle shop in Seattle some day. Nishioka thinks about his udon in layers, and this cooling pile of grated daikon complements the fishy broth, meaty beef, and bracing scallion and lemon to make the perfect bowl.